‘Schiap’ is coming back into style: the great return of Elsa Schiaparelli

Abstract

The aim of this article is to analyze the work and artistic legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, one of the most innovative fashion designers of the 20th century. Particular emphasis is placed on her collaboration with representatives of French Surrealism and the influence of this artistic movement on her designs. The article presents Schiaparelli’s biography, tracing her journey from Italian aristocracy to becoming one of the leading figures in interwar French fashion. A detailed examination of her fashion house (1927–1954) is provided, including its rise to prominence, peak success, and the reasons for its closure. Furthermore, the study explores Schiaparelli’s impact on later decades of fashion, particularly on designers such as Thierry Mugler, Hussein Chalayan, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander McQueen. The article also discusses the 2012 revival of the Schiaparelli brand and its gradual return to international fashion recognition. This research is based on an analysis of existing literature and case studies of selected Schiaparelli designs, offering insight into her significance in the history of fashion and art.